Livin’ the [Spanish] Dream

Entries tagged as ‘Madrid’

would you like my autograph?

October 29, 2008 · 2 Comments

This story requires some background context, so it might get a little long. Just bear with me.

On Monday, I finally decided that I HAD to get a haircut and I couldn´t wait any longer. It was getting out of control. After getting a recommendation from the women in the program office, my friend Jen and I headed to the peluqueria (hair salon).

En route to the salon, we were stopped by two women – one with a microphone and the other with a TV camera.

Reporter: Can I ask you girls a question?
Me: Uhh… We speak English.
Reporter: But you speak Spanish too, right?
Jen: She does! She does! (Pointing to me)

Jen proceeded to take 10 steps backwards while I was stuck talking to this woman. (Remember, this entire conversation is taking place in Spanish, and I´m a little caught off guard and not really sure what´s happening).

The reporter proceeds to tell me that Sarkozy (President of France and the European Union right now) and some other famous politicians have been rumored to wear elevated shoes while on television to make themselves appear taller. My response to this? “Ohhh… You mean like Tom Cruise?!?!”

Then the woman asks me why I think they do this. First of all, I don´t even know if this is true or not, or if she´s just joking around. Second, if it IS true, why would I know why? Third, even if I DID know why, I probably wouldn´t know how to say it in Spanish. So I laughed a little and responded with, “Umm… maybe because being taller makes them seem more masculine?”

Not the best answer, but not the worst either, and I think my Spanish grammar was mostly correct. I thought I was off the hook until she followed up with another question. Because I was so flustered, I didn´t entirely understand the question. I THINK she asked me if I thought that the Spanish president should do the same thing so that he could regain control of the Parliament, or something along those lines. Now let me explain the difficult (and also hilarious) part of the question.

The Spanish president´s last name is Zapatero, and just as we refer to the American president as Bush, the Spaniards just call him by his last name. Now, the Spanish word for shoes is zapatos, and zapatero literally translates into shoemaker. So you see how it was a bit of a play on words when she was asking me about Zapatero´s zapatos? Funny for Spaniards maybe, but not so easy for me.

By this point, I was REALLY confused and not sure how to respond. I didn´t know who this woman was, I didn´t know what TV show she was from, and I had no idea what Zapatero should do with his zapatos. So I laughed uncomfortably, told her I had no idea, and she let me leave. In the United States, my nonsense answers and awkward laughs would have been cut from the program entirely and no one would ever see my ridiculous interview.

Apparently, that is not the case here.

(Here´s where you need some background information). On Monday and Tuesday mornings, I hold a conversation group in English with high school students at a school down the street. They´re learning English, so I take a group of them into a separate room and we just chat about life, movies, travel, school, etc. Since the staff apparently thinks I´m amazing and a certified teacher, I get special perks. Like a key to the elevator so I don´t have to walk up 7 flights of stairs like the students do :)

On Tuesday, I was waiting for the elevator – by myself – in between classes. One of the teachers who I had never spoken to before also came to wait for the elevator. He turns to me, gives me a strange look, and says to me (in Spanish), “I saw you on TV yesterday!”

Oh. Dear. God.

I felt my face turn bright red, asked him to repeat what he just said, and immediately died. I kept saying over and over that I didn´t understand the question, it was a disaster, oh my goodness I can´t believe they showed that on TV! He then proceeded to tell another teacher what happened, and I died all over again.

I now see how hilarious it is that I was on TV in Madrid and had no idea what I was saying, but I couldn´t believe that he saw me and RECOGNIZED ME. (Remember how I was on my way to get a haircut? That means I hadn´t brushed my hair that day because why would I need to style it when the hairdresser was going to do it for me?)

Needless to say, I´m still slightly embarrassed but mostly amused. It will make a great icebreaker story someday, don´t you think?

Categories: In Madrid
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new roommates.

October 29, 2008 · Leave a Comment

After my trip to the Basque Country this weekend (stories and pictures to follow soon), I came back to my house to discover two new American girls living with us.

My señora had mentioned that there might be two girls coming to stay with us. What was lost in translation, however, was the fact that they would be there for the rest of the semester.

When I signed up for housing, I knew I wanted to live with a Spanish family and I knew I wanted to live alone, for a few reasons. One, after having my own room and my own space in Boston this summer, I knew I would have a hard time transitioning back into having to share a room. Since the school could not guarantee that we would each have our own rooms, I decided to fly solo.

Second, and more importantly, I didn´t want to speak English. Ever. My señora doesn´t know any English, aside from the names of her favorite actors. I prefer it this way because it forces my Spanish to improve, and that´s what I´m here for. Only 2 out of my 4 classes are in Spanish, so I wanted to expose myself to the language as much as possible.

Now that these two girls are here, it becomes a bit more difficult. One of them is 2 years younger than I am and doesn´t speak (Spanish OR English) very much. The other one is a year younger than I am and speaks Spanish just as well as I do, but CHOOSES NOT TO. Last night the four of us were in the kitchen having dinner, and the new girl was telling me stories about school and studying and friends, and was speaking entirely in English. Great for the girl who doesn´t know Spanish, but my señora had no idea what was going on. Every few minutes I would turn to her to tell her what we were talking about because I felt so bad.

Technically I´m supposed to tell the school that this is going on, because apparently the host families are not supposed to do this, but I don´t want to get my señora in trouble. She´s been so welcoming and accomodating, and in the grand scheme of things it´s not THAT big of a deal. I´m traveling every weekend until I leave, and there aren´t that many more weeks left. The girls are nice, and I can continue to speak in Spanish even when the other girls aren´t.

Things might get ugly, though, when we start fighting for the bathroom…

Categories: In Madrid
Tagged: ,

un partido de fútbol.

October 19, 2008 · 1 Comment

For my birthday, my parents gave me the money for three Real Madrid tickets. Two of my friends from Tufts, Erica and Scott, came with me. Both of them are studying abroad through other programs, but we’re all in Madrid. I thought it would be a nice little Tufts evening – we even got drinks beforehand at a TGIFridays because we’re so American.

Getting ready for the game to start

Getting ready for the game to start

The Real Madrid crazy fan section - they sing and make noise the ENTIRE game

The Real Madrid crazy fan section - they sing and make noise the ENTIRE game

Me and Erica before the game started

Me and Erica before the game started

The three of us - Scott, me, and Erica

The three of us - Scott, me, and Erica

Categories: In Madrid
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jim comes to madrid.

October 4, 2008 · 2 Comments

The Saturday right after my birthday my Dad flew to Madrid. Although I like to think that he dropped everything to come wish me Happy Birthday, it was more a product of convenience than anything else. He had to be in Brussels for business that coming Monday, and it would have been a shame to be in Europe and not stop by to see me! So he left Sandy at home with Jackie and Elaina for a girls weekend and came to hang out with me.

I met him at the airport bright and early, and we headed to the hotel. The first order of business (as it generally is in our family) was food. We walked through Sol and down to the Plaza Mayor where we sat and had some coffee (Dad learned the hard way that “free refills” don’t exist in Europe) and bacon and eggs. The weather was great and it was still early so the Plaza wasn’t full of tourists.

Plaza Mayor

Plaza Mayor

Plaza Mayor

Plaza Mayor

After breakfast, we headed back towards my house so Dad could meet my Señora. She took us to a Chocalateria near the house for churros con chocolate, a Spanish favorite. These aren’t churros like you can sometimes find in the States – those are Mexican churros. Spanish churros generally don’t have cinnamon or sugar on them – they’re just deep fried. They come on a big plate and everyone gets their own cup of melted chocolate. You eat them by dipping the churro in the chocolate, and let me tell you – it’s delicious.

Stole this picture from the internet to give a visual image

Stole this picture from the internet to give a visual image

While I’m really glad Dad got to meet my Señora, the whole experience was exhausting. Dad doesn’t speak any Spanish, and my Señora doesn’t speak any English, meaning that I had to translate for 2 hours. It was good practice though!

After churros, Dad and I headed to El Estadio de Santiago Bernabeu, where the Real Madrid fútbol (soccer) team plays. They offer tours during the day, and we got to see the memorabilia museum, the field, the players bench, and the locker room. It was awesome!

Checking out the view...

Checking out the view...

Trophy row in the Real Madrid museum

Trophy row in the Real Madrid museum

I made him smile.

I made him smile.

Ground level with the amazing field

Ground level with the amazing field

Sitting on the players bench!

Sitting on the players bench!

They have a hot tub jacuzzi in the locker room

They have a hot tub jacuzzi in the locker room

After the tour of the stadium, we headed back to the hotel for the second favorite family activity – a nap. Thet jet lag had caught up with Dad, and my birthday festivities had caught up with me. We napped, showered, and then headed to dinner with Erica. We went to a restaurant called Lua that the director of the Syracuse Abroad program recommended. It was quite an interesting experience – there’s no menu. The chef goes to the market every day and buys what’s fresh and creates new entrees out of his purchases. There are seven courses of small portions, and I have no idea what we ate. It was definitely nothing that we would have ever ordered off a menu, but it was all really good.

Sunday morning we headed to El Rastro, a giant outdoor market that takes up entire streets. We were on a mission to find a Real Madrid jersey, and to pick up some birthday gifts for friends at home. We stuck it out through the rain and were quite successful. After El Rastro we headed back to the Plaza Mayor for a lunch of the most expensive pizza.

After lunch we headed back to the hotel for another nap. Dad couldn’t even make it up to the room before he fell asleep.

Sleeping in the hotel lobby

Sleeping in the hotel lobby

I wasn’t feeling very well, so I slept for an extra hour while Dad grabbed a Starbucks and read his book. We grabbed dinner in Sol and then headed across the street to a bar to check out the Steelers game! Sadly they lost, but it was great to be able to watch the game in Spain.

Dad headed to Brussels early Monday morning, but I was glad he got to come visit. Now Sandy has to come!

Categories: In Madrid
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birthday celebrations.

October 4, 2008 · Leave a Comment

Turning 21 in Europe is nothing special, since the legal drinking age of 18 is very rarely enforced. Luckily for me, I was with a bunch of Americans who were determined to act like 21 mattered.

The festivities started on September 17, since Jessica insisted that we celebrate my “12:01″ as well as my actual day of birth. We went to the grand opening of a new club, Gold, which ended up being pretty close to my house. They advertised an open bar until 1:30am, so it was packed when we arrived. At approximately 1:35am, the place had emptied out quite a bit. We stuck around to dance for a while though.

Jess and I dancing to American rap music from 3 years ago

Jess and I dancing to American rap music from 3 years ago

Wednesday was fun, but Thursday is when we really celebrated. All of my friends and I met up at a bar, Chocita Sueca (and no, I don’t know what it means. Swedish something). The place was empty, which was great because that meant there was plenty of space for us to let loose.

Jen and Justin showing off their moves

Jen and Justin showing off their moves

Auyon, Alyssa, and Josh

Auyon, Alyssa, and Josh

My best friend from Tufts, Erica, is studying abroad in Madrid also, but through a different program. I was SO excited that she was able to come out and celebrate with us, even though she had to be up early the next morning for a weekend trip to Sevilla with her school.

Erica and I at Chocita Sueca

Erica and I at Chocita Sueca

After the bar, it was time for the real dancing to begin. We headed to one of the best clubs in Madrid, Pacha, to finish off the evening. There are a lot of discotecas in Madrid, but Pacha is really great because a lot of Spanish people go there. In a lot of the clubs, especially the ones near Sol (the touristy downtown area) there are a lot of Americans, and the Spanish guys that are there are creepy. Pacha is really nice and all of the people we’ve met there have been awesome.

The outside of Pacha

The outside of Pacha

We danced all night in Pacha, and some of the Spanish friends we made met up with us also. Jess’ best friend from home has cousins that live here, so we’ve hung out with them a few times. They’re the ones that brought us to Pacha the first time, so we thank them for that!

Me, Erica, and Abby at Pacha

Me, Erica, and Abby at Pacha

We left around 5:30am when we thought we would fall asleep in the club and when our feet hurt so badly from being in high heels for 7 hours. I don’t know how the Spanish girls do it… It was a great birthday though, and I’m looking forward to being 21 in the States where it actually matters!

The dancefloor inside of Pacha

The dancefloor inside of Pacha

Categories: In Madrid
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la noche en blanco.

October 4, 2008 · Leave a Comment

Every year, Madrid organizes La Noche en Blanco (The White Night/Night in White). It’s a giant cultural festivital and there are events located all over the city. The museums stay open, the Metro is open late, and there are people EVERYWHERE.

The girls at the beginning of La Noche en Blanco

The girls at the beginning of La Noche en Blanco

We had planned on seeing a man tightrope walk between two buildings, but unfortunately he postponed his performance. The weather was awful – cold and windy – and I’m sure he was nervous a gust of wind would blow him over. Once we realized that it would be a while before he tried again, we decided to change locations and see something else.

After spending a LONG TIME searching for bathrooms for people, we end up walking to Chueca. Chueca is the trendy gay neighborhood in Madrid, and is also home to Madrid’s best tapas bar, El Tigre. Although the bar was packed, we managed to get some drinks and tapas. The drinks at El Tigre are enormous, and the plates of tapas are even bigger. For €6 I got a copa (large glass) of sangria and a big plate of potatoes and croquetas. I was starving, so it was perfect.

In large groups of people, like we were traveling with that night, people start to get antsy to leave and see something else. We head out of the bar and run into The Sun in the middle of the plaza.

The Sun in Chueca

The Sun in Chueca

The Sun was a collection of heat lamps. I’m sure there was some purpose to it, and the sun kept “rising and setting”, but on a cold night we couldn’t have cared less. We huddled in front of them like we were at the beach.

Lauren, Tara, and Jen in front of The Sun

Lauren, Tara, and Jen in front of The Sun

There were people camped out in front of The Sun on lawn chairs, just having a beer and enjoying the warmth. While we were hanging out in the plaza, another group of Syracuse Madrid students met up with us, making us a group of about 20 Americans. You can imagine what that would have looked like when we all busted out singing along to some Journey.

Jim rocking out to some Don't Stop Believing

Jim rocking out to some Don't Stop Believing

By this time, it was nearly 4:30 am. People started to get cranky and cold, and no one could decide where to go. Some people split up to go to an outdoor techno concert, and some people headed indoors to a bar. Jen and I chose to head home, which ended up being quite the adventure since there were NO AVAILABLE CABS. I think the general consensus of the evening was that it was fun, but we didn’t feel the need to do it again. I think it’s one of those events that you need to have 2 friends with you and a plan of action. All in all, I’m glad I went. It’s no secret that Madrid has quite the nightlife and I’ve definitely been out until 5 am before (and later), but it was crazy to see the city FULL of people at that hour!

)

La Noche en Blanco :)

Categories: In Madrid
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mi casa.

September 14, 2008 · 1 Comment

Staying with a host family is a fairly typical study abroad experience. Everyone on my program has been placed with a family, and everyone I’ve met here from other study abroad programs has a family as well. The family is responsible for cooking dinner for us, cleaning, doing our laundry, and just making us feel included in the culture here.

The norms of family life are different in Madrid than in the US. First, the apartments in the city are generally very small. Second, it is customary to have “house shoes” or slippers. Since I left my slippers in storage at school, I’ve been wearing a pair of flip flops around the house. Also, Madrileños don’t entertain guests in their homes. While I always had friends over to my house in the States, the people here prefer to keep the home a place for family and rather meet their friends at a cafe somewhere.

My Señora is incredibly nice and usually a pretty good cook, though she does have quite the affinity for oil and salt. She speaks absolutely no English, so it’s sometimes difficult to understand her but she does a good job of explaining it to make sure I understand.

My bed, nightstand and one of my closets

My bed, nightstand and one of my closets

Closet and shelves

The family room, as seen from my bedroom doorway

The family room, as seen from my bedroom doorway

The family room, as seen from the front hallway. My bedroom door is just left of the TV

The family room, as seen from the front hallway. My bedroom door is just left of the TV

The bathroom I share with my Senora

The bathroom I share with my Senora

The kitchen, with the washing machine next to the dishwasher

The kitchen, with the washing machine next to the dishwasher

 

Categories: In Madrid
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futbol and bullfights.

September 13, 2008 · 1 Comment

The first week in Madrid was spent getting to know our host family and getting oriented in the city. We all have monthly Metro passes so we can travel using the bus and/or the subway. The public transportation here is great – efficient, clean and safe. I take a bus to school because it’s quick, but I could also take the subway if I wanted. Both options are located just steps outside my front door.

During the first week, we got to see a friendly match between Real Madrid and Lisbon. It was absolutely incredible. I wasn’t prepared for the magnitude of the stadium and the energy of the fans. It was just a practice game so the stadium wasn’t full, and I can’t wait to go back for a real game!

Before the game started

Before the game started

Kickoff!

Kickoff!

Center of the action

Center of the action

That weekend, Max and Josh asked if I wanted to join them to watch a bullfight. They live near the bullfighting stadium, and the tickets only cost €10. I immediately agreed, not fully understanding what a bullfight entailed. I was so in the dark that I didn’t realize that the bullfighters KILLED the bull. As we were walking in, there were a few men holding up a banner advocating the fair treatment of the bulls. I felt conflicted, because I felt like I should be standing up for the bulls too!

Regardless, we grabbed some snacks and went in. Our seats were in the second row, but we didn’t realize that most of the action would take place on the opposite side of the ring. I guess it’s a good thing because I could barely watch as it was!

Opening ceremonies?

Opening ceremonies?

The matadors

The matadors

And.... The End.

And.... The End.

Categories: In Madrid
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finally in madrid.

September 1, 2008 · 3 Comments

I finally arrived in Madrid last Monday, and have spent the week settling into my new home, getting to know the city, and preparing for classes. Our classes started today (hope you all enjoyed Labor Day because I DIDN’T!) and I like the two classes I had today. Everyone is required to take a Spanish language class, and since I’ve taken a fair amount of Spanish at Tufts, I’m taking a class called Advanced Language Usage. Sounds intimidating, but I took the placement exam this morning and it seems like it will be a good match. I want to be challenged in my Spanish so I’m forced to pick it up quickly!

Since I’m in such a high level of Spanish, I’m also required to take a course that is taught in Spanish. I’ve chosen Politics and Economics of the European Union. I’m excited for it because I learned a bit about the EU in one of my Political Science classes last semester, so I’ll know a little bit about which will hopefully help to bridge the language gap. I’m also taking an art history class, Modern Spanish Art, that is taught in Spanish. I’m auditing this class though because I don’t need the credits – I just enjoy art and want to get even more exposure to Spanish.

The last few classes I’m taking are World Economy, Money and Banking, and Peace & Conflict: Practice & Theory. I’m a bit skeptical that the Peace & Conflict class will be a bit “fluffy” and hippie, but it’s the only class that counts towards the core requirements for my major at Tufts, so I’m sort of obligated to take it.

The classes should be good, and they include 4 or 5 day field trips later on in the semester. I’ll be traveling to Turkey, Morocco, and the Basque Country for class, in addition to personal travel. I’m quickly running out of weekends to explore Europe!

But enough with the boring stuff. My first weekend in Madrid was a blast. The night life culture is a lot different here. People don’t eat dinner until around 10 pm, and the young people don’t go out until around 12 or 1 am. My friends and I found a great “cave bar”, which literally resembles a cave on the inside! The atmosphere was great – there were a lot of Spanish 20-somethings there, but they played a lot of American music. I think I heard Rihanna’s “Umbrella” three times before we left!

Around 3 am we left to go to a discoteca called Joy. (I know, parents, it’s past my curfew but my senora is nicer than you are!) A lot of the students in the program were there and it was great to mix in with the Madrilenos (Madrid locals). Spanish guys are quite persistent, and my friend Jessica was definitely the center of their attention! Us girls stuck together though, no worries. Because of the cultural differences, we don’t yet feel comfortable dancing with Spanish guys that we don’t know. Maybe eventually, but not right now. We left late and I got home around 6 am. It was a lot of fun to experience that kind of nightlife, but I definitely can’t maintain that lifestyle! On Saturday night I decided I would stay in and watch a movie with my Senora, but by 11:45 pm I was struggling to keep my eyes open.

On Sunday Jessica and I checked out El Rastro, which is a huge outdoor market. Sunday is a day of rest here, so everything is closed, but people set up little stands and sell homemade jewelry and clothing at El Rastro. It was enormous and crowded and really overwhelming, but it was nice to see. I didn’t buy anything – there were a lot of hippie clothes – but Jessica got a great bag to carry her books for school in.

I know I haven’t updated much on the rest of my Eurovision trip, but I finally uploaded my pictures to my computer so I will backtrack soon and post some great pictures and videos to give you all a visual image of the places I’ve seen. The two weeks spent traveling through Europe were great, but it’s really nice to have a place to call my own. I’ll also be sure to take some pictures of my room and my house and my neighborhood, which is really nice.

It’s always nice to hear from people from home, so make sure you stay in touch with me! Here’s all my contact info -

E-mail: JennInMadrid[at]gmail[dot]com
AIM: jenner220
Skype: jenner220
Madrid Cell Phone: (34) 648.741.860

I have also set up a local US number that you can call from any cell or land line that will connect you to my computer through Skype. If I don’t answer, feel free to leave a message and I can call you back. That number is (847) 852.4656

Talk to you soon!

Categories: In Madrid
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host family.

August 19, 2008 · 2 Comments

Syracuse in Madrid requires that all students studying abroad stay with a Spanish family instead of living in dorms. This is a chance for us to learn the culture and be totally immersed in the language, and I’m glad everyone is required to do this.

Yolanda, our housing coordinator and “chaperone” on the Eurovision trip, shared with me my new family the other day. I’m living with a woman named Esther, she’s 49 years old and divorced. Her 16 year old son lives with her on the weekends so I’ll be able to meet him as well. She lives near the financial district in Madrid and is in a really nice apartment. I got to see pictures of the house, and there are hardwood floors and granite countertops and mirrors everywhere. The photographs were taken before she moved in the furniture, so I’m excited to see what it’s like all decorated!

I also learned a little bit about her and got to read reviews from other students she’s hosted. She said that she really likes movies and theater and going to the gym, so I think we’ll get along well :) . The other girls that lived with her in previous years say she’s a really good cook and isn’t very strict about showering and such. (Water is generally scarce and expensive in Madrid so many families limit showers to 10 minutes or less). I’m living alone, but even if I had a roommate we would each have our own room and just share a bathroom.

This is one of the nicer housing placements in the program, so I’m excited. Since the fall semester program is much smaller than the spring semester (85 students in the fall, almost 300 in the spring!) we all got great locations and accommodations. The best part about all of this is that she has internet!

I arrive in Madrid on Monday, and will do my best to keep updating on the places I’ve been. So far, in addition to Heidelberg and Amsterdam, I’ve seen Paris, Chamonix, and Geneva. Will update soon!

Love you all!

Categories: In Madrid · Travel
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